Tongariro Alpine Crossing, New Zealand

I was slightly reluctant about doing this 19.4km tramping trail due to its popularity; however, I gave in and on our first day in New Zealand we found ourselves on a minibus with a bunch of other keen walkers, ranging from 18 to 69 years old, heading to the start point of the trail.

In an attempt to control the volumes of people tramping across this beautiful trail at any one time, there are very limited parking options for those wanting to simply go from the starting point to the finishing point (the marked 19.4km track). Consequently, there are several companies operating shuttle buses from the local towns, or the finishing point, Ketetahi (where you can leave your car). The company we used (Active Outdoor Adventures) were excellent and, in addition to providing the shuttle service, provided safety and weather information plus a brochure about the walk (cost about $35 per person). I suppose this is in an attempt to ensure people are properly equipped for this trail, which is most certainly not a walk in the park…it still didn’t deter the chap at the front of our bus who was wearing some fashion “trainers”.

New Zealand tourism heralds this 6 hour (average), well-marked tramp, as one of the best in the country, with some saying it’s among the top ten single-day treks in the the world. The track weaves between three epic volcanic peaks – Tongariro, Ngauruhoe, Ruapehu; passes waterfalls and emerald green lakes; takes you over windy ridges; and across barren, desert like fields. In short it has plenty to look at!

The trail begins with a very nice gradual climb, which acts as a nice warm up for some steeper climbing later into the tramp. The scenery, at the start of the trail, reminded me of many happy days walking in northern England, particularly the heather and trickling streams. The main difference is being able to see the volcanic peaks.

Mount Ngauruhoe (aka Mount Doom for Lord of the Rings fans) stands at a maximum height of 2,291m and is an active stratovolcano; the youngest vent in the Tongariro volcanic complex.

The northernmost volcano of the three peaks is Mount Tongariro; the peak of which stands at 1,978m.

Sitting at the southern point of the Taupo Volcanic Zone is the stratovolcano Mount Ruapehu; this one standing the highest of the three at 2,797m.

Within the first hour of walking you can peel off to the left to visit the Soda Springs waterfall for a refreshing cool down. The track is signposted.

There are a number of really nice steep sections that truly get the heart pumping and of course you are rewarded with some spectacular views as a result – we didn’t even have the best weather on the day we did this walk, but we still saw some stunning landscapes!

On the flatter sections you don’t feel too overwhelmed by the number of people on the trail; however, as you reach steeper sections the bottle-neck effect means you might have to slow down your pace (or do some overtaking where safely possible). The highest peak along the trail is the Red Crater, sitting at 1,886m.

From the highest peak, and before you reach the Emerald Lakes, you have to descend a scree slope, which if you’re strange like my husband and I we loved descending on – just pretend you’re skiing without skis attached to your feet and these slopes don’t need to be that daunting. As we were dipping in and out of cloud cover on this part of the day, it was awesome to be so focussed on “skiing” down safely and then to suddenly look up to see a radiant turquoise, sulphur smelling, pool of water – the Emerald Lakes. The contrast in colour against the dry, arid mountain is amazing.

After passing the Emerald Lakes you then pass Te wai-whakaiata-o-te Rangihiroa (Blue Lake), which although may not be as vibrant as the Emerald Lakes, it is still very beautiful.

The last couple of kilometres of the trail are downhill, and again you feel like you are back in the Yorkshire dales on England, looking over heather and low brush, with a couple of spectacular lakes in sight.